In Jewelry, Sometimes Design Speaks as Loudly as a Logo

Even though the tri-link design remains the prevailing motif at Hoorsenbuhs, Mr. Keith plays with it. Sometimes the center link is stretched around the wrist, like in the Revere Cuff With Diamonds ($22,500); other times it is simplified to a single elongated link, as with the Dame Phantom ring ($3,950). The customer often has the option of adding diamonds, including baguettes and pavé detailing.

“Everything is hand set, and each piece comes from the same tri-link,” said Kether Parker, Hoorsenbuhs’s brand director, “but it’s never-ending inspo.”

What the tri-link is to Hoorsenbuhs, circles are to Spinelli Kilcollin. Founded by the business and life partners Yves Spinelli and Dwyer Kilcollin in 2010, the brand is “interconnected, mobile and modular, and everything we do, we’re designing around a circle,” Mx. Kilcollin said. Spinelli Kilcollin’s first line was Galaxy, stackable rings connected with smaller circles.

Galaxy rings run from $200 to $50,000, in part because the customer has a choice among silver; yellow, black, white or rose gold; and platinum. “This brand laid the groundwork for clients mixing metals,” said Alexandra Lippin, senior vice president of fine jewelry at the retail chain Elyse Walker. “Then they went and started mixing different colors of diamonds and gemstones. My clients love the novelty of it.”

Ms. Lippin, who buys from about 30 jewelry brands for the business’s eight stores, said it began stocking Spinelli Kilcollin in July 2016 and now sells one of its rings every other week. “Clients want a point of view,” she said. “In a time when everyone can be a jewelry designer, Spinelli Kilcollin and Hoorsenbuhs still excite me because they’ve both stayed true to their brand ethos, and it continues to clearly resonate.”

Elyse Walker began selling Hoorsenbuhs in 2019 and opened a shop-in-shop for the brand at its Newport Beach, Calif., store in July 2021. “Sales have been consistently strong year over year for both brands and they are among our top five best sellers in jewelry,” Ms. Lippin said.